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#71
Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Air compressor wonkiness. Too...
Last post by plyonsMC9 - July 28, 2026, 09:40:22 PMGood evening fellow bus folks,
We're traveling about the western US in our DL3-45 - 1993. About a week ago while driving a freeway, our bus suddenly lost power, or so I thought. I heard a quiet pop, and then our speed rapidly dropped. I was able to get to the side of the road. However I noted that all systems were perfect as per the gauges and the engine was running strong. Further checks showed that the parking brake had been applied, that was the "pop". Back to gauge checks; they showed our air pressure to be at about 140 on the front tank and 135 on the rear tank. Never seen that before!! Too much air, so it applied the parking brake. Well, I got the pressure down, idled the bus some, and all seemed OK. So I resumed the journey albeit watching the air pressure gauge. I noticed that the rear tank was now only showing a very minimal range, say, 116 - 122. Anytime pressure reached 116, it would fill back up to 122 and the air dryer releases the pressure. IIRC the pressure would normally start to build up around 100 or so... it's a bit hard to read the gauge at the lower end. So starting to build up air at 116 is unusual. Resuming the journey, after a few starts at 116, and applying the brakes again, the entire air system resumes normal operation and has no more troubles the rest of that days' travels. starting at around 100 (not sure here) and off around 120. Next day, again starting off, the first few minutes, my range is 116-122, a few brake applications, and then air pressure drops to the normal range. This is now the pattern. I do release air from the release valve in the back of the bus (drain daily). Though, I'm much more consistent after this issue started.
Is there something I can check while out on the road? Or a nice, simple ,easy fix?
Or a maintenance item I need to take care of?
Thank you folks for any input!!
Safe travels, Phil
We're traveling about the western US in our DL3-45 - 1993. About a week ago while driving a freeway, our bus suddenly lost power, or so I thought. I heard a quiet pop, and then our speed rapidly dropped. I was able to get to the side of the road. However I noted that all systems were perfect as per the gauges and the engine was running strong. Further checks showed that the parking brake had been applied, that was the "pop". Back to gauge checks; they showed our air pressure to be at about 140 on the front tank and 135 on the rear tank. Never seen that before!! Too much air, so it applied the parking brake. Well, I got the pressure down, idled the bus some, and all seemed OK. So I resumed the journey albeit watching the air pressure gauge. I noticed that the rear tank was now only showing a very minimal range, say, 116 - 122. Anytime pressure reached 116, it would fill back up to 122 and the air dryer releases the pressure. IIRC the pressure would normally start to build up around 100 or so... it's a bit hard to read the gauge at the lower end. So starting to build up air at 116 is unusual. Resuming the journey, after a few starts at 116, and applying the brakes again, the entire air system resumes normal operation and has no more troubles the rest of that days' travels. starting at around 100 (not sure here) and off around 120. Next day, again starting off, the first few minutes, my range is 116-122, a few brake applications, and then air pressure drops to the normal range. This is now the pattern. I do release air from the release valve in the back of the bus (drain daily). Though, I'm much more consistent after this issue started.
Is there something I can check while out on the road? Or a nice, simple ,easy fix?
Or a maintenance item I need to take care of?
Thank you folks for any input!!
Safe travels, Phil
#72
Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: Greasing top door hinge
Last post by Jim Blackwood - July 28, 2026, 08:24:43 AMWell, you can call me stupid if you like, I'd forgotten the claw was on the opposite side of the door. Anyway, the cylinder has two chambers. It looks like one is a 2" bore and the other is 2-1/2" and the travel is 5". If both chambers were pressurized at 120 psi that would give about 960 lbs of force if my calculations are right so the electric strut above should work. The claw, being pneumatic should latch in as usual I would think.
Jim
Jim
#73
Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: Which dashcam are you usin...
Last post by luvrbus - July 28, 2026, 07:16:33 AMI would buy a Garmin now,a concrete supplier here uses those on his concrete trucks,they maybe a overkill for private RV
#74
Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: Which dashcam are you usin...
Last post by Gary Hatt - Publisher BCM - July 27, 2026, 07:43:14 PMI use a Thinkware Dashcam. It is the one they started putting in Garbage Trucks. They determined by installing Dashcams in Garbage Trucks they save thousands of dollars of false insurance claims.
https://thinkwarestore.com/product/arc-700-front-rear/
https://thinkwarestore.com/product/arc-700-front-rear/
#75
Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Upgrade Your RV Water Quality ...
Last post by Gary Hatt - Publisher BCM - July 27, 2026, 05:49:37 PMGet clean, safe, great-tasting water on the road with Clearsource RV water filtration systems, which are engineered specifically for RV life with premium components, stainless steel fittings, and RV-centric features you can rely on.
Whether you're camping, on short trips, or full-time adventuring, enjoy peace of mind knowing your water is filtered down to microscopic contaminants that ordinary hose filters miss. Drink easy, travel better!
Shop high-performance RV water filter systems, replacement parts, and accessories now at ClearSourceRV.com. To view a video showing you how well their systems really work, click here.
https://www.clearsourcerv.com/pages/performance-comparison-with-competing-systems
https://www.clearsourcerv.com/
#76
Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: Which dashcam are you usin...
Last post by luvrbus - July 27, 2026, 05:29:22 PMI had a Viofo in the Country Coach it was a good camera ,I am sure there are others just as good at a better price,I never did figure out how to work all the features on it.lol I am not the best figuring electronics and how they work I use a flip phone the dumb type
#77
Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Which dashcam are you using in...
Last post by Iceni John - July 27, 2026, 04:30:33 PMI recently bought a Viofo A119M Pro dashcam for my car and bus, but its camera lens cannot point ahead if the dashcam is mounted to a vertical windshield like in my bus. I'll keep it for my car, but I now need a second dashcam for the bus. So, what dashcams do other busnuts use in their buses? I'm looking for a single-channel dashcam suitable for vertical windshields, ideally with 4K 30 FPS recording using a Starvis 2 image sensor, and with built-in GPS logging. Any ideas, anyone?
Thanks, John
Thanks, John
#78
Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: Greasing top door hinge
Last post by Jim Blackwood - July 26, 2026, 08:36:00 AMNo, I doubt those would be. The ones with the motor off to the side are stronger though and come in a lot of different sizes. They use a double worm and pinion gear reduction from the motor to drive the screw so that's basically a triple reduction setup.
Here is one I looked at which could work, the speed and stroke being the limitations. With thrust capabilities up into 2000-3000 lb range I'm pretty sure it is up to the job. I have some of their smaller actuators. I think the first thing is to determine how much force is needed.
For example, with an average of 120psi of air, a 2" cylinder would generate 377 lbs of force and a 3" one would make 700 lbs of force. I have a surplus door cylinder and it appears to be two stage but I don't know the diameters yet as I haven't disassembled it. The link below should be for one with 900lbs of force and 1.11"/sec speed. Which means full travel would take 9 seconds and should be acceptable if a little slow.
https://www.progressiveautomations.com/products/pa-hd2?variant=44240160358580
It's a bit pricey at about $350 but there are probably cheaper ones out there that might also work.
Jim
Here is one I looked at which could work, the speed and stroke being the limitations. With thrust capabilities up into 2000-3000 lb range I'm pretty sure it is up to the job. I have some of their smaller actuators. I think the first thing is to determine how much force is needed.
For example, with an average of 120psi of air, a 2" cylinder would generate 377 lbs of force and a 3" one would make 700 lbs of force. I have a surplus door cylinder and it appears to be two stage but I don't know the diameters yet as I haven't disassembled it. The link below should be for one with 900lbs of force and 1.11"/sec speed. Which means full travel would take 9 seconds and should be acceptable if a little slow.
https://www.progressiveautomations.com/products/pa-hd2?variant=44240160358580
It's a bit pricey at about $350 but there are probably cheaper ones out there that might also work.
Jim
#79
Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: Greasing top door hinge
Last post by luvrbus - July 26, 2026, 07:35:29 AMQuote from: Jim Blackwood on July 26, 2026, 07:03:16 AMI have recently mounted pairs of electric linear actuators on my car for a hood lift and wing actuators and have a 3rd set I will be adding to the gas struts on the bed platform in the bus so I'm just wondering if a larger one might be suitable for opening and closing the door? That'd make it all electric which seems like it'd be an advantage. What do you guys think? Would it be hard to get the latch to work?
I have seen the actuators with quick release to open the door and close with the actuators but I never have been able to find those,I have tried to adapt a trunk closer from a GM car but it wasn't strong enough
Jim
#80
Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: Greasing top door hinge
Last post by Jim Blackwood - July 26, 2026, 07:03:16 AMI have recently mounted pairs of electric linear actuators on my car for a hood lift and wing actuators and have a 3rd set I will be adding to the gas struts on the bed platform in the bus so I'm just wondering if a larger one might be suitable for opening and closing the door? That'd make it all electric which seems like it'd be an advantage. What do you guys think? Would it be hard to get the latch to work?
Jim
Jim